Children dressed as adults and adults in childish looks, miles of paper and tons of cardboard boxes, red horses and black butterflies on the podium… Thirty nine fashion shows, 51 designer, 17,000 guests, 200 accredited media, and five thematic after-parties. Here is the preliminary statistically analytical review of the fashion week in Kyiv – Ukrainian Fashion Week that took place in Mystetsky Arsenal from March 6 to 10.
While buyers negotiate with designers, guests share their impressions, the organizers revive their strength, and Mystetsky Arsenal returns to its everyday life (in a few days Art Pancake Week will take place here) we suggest to make a review of how Ukrainian designers saw and presented the next fashion season of fall-winter 2013/2014.
The brightness of the spring-summer season, which will have the “acid” lemon yellow, powdered blue, and purple-pink shades will not last until fall, according to Ukrainian designers. The vast majority of the collections presented at the 32nd Ukrainian Fashion Week were designed in deep dark colors. The absolute “masters” of the podium were black, gray, and brown, followed by dark blue and burgundy, and only then by white (of various shades), red, and pastel beige, blue, and green.
Although, natural fabrics prevailed in the collections of the 32nd UFW (there was a lot of wool, jersey, knitwear, leather, fur, and silk), there were still designers that readily experiment with innovative resource. For example, the designers’ duo of Olena Zemskova and Tetiana Vorozhbyt presented their “eccentric vision of new luxury.” In their fall-winter 2013 collection the designers combined natural fur, leather, and silk with “innovative” materials – leather made from cellulose. Designers believe that it will be the material of the future since by the looks it is just the same as “traditional” leather. And according to Zemskova, clothes made of this material feel more pleasant against human skin. Another important fact is that clothes made of this material are absolutely ergonomic because it lets the air pass through it.
Another “fabric” highlight of the 32nd UFW was presented by another Ukrainian designers’ duet KAMENSKAKONONOVA. Homespun fabric made from sheep wool following traditional Ukrainian technologies was ordered especially for their collection in the Carpathians.
IMAGES AND SILHOUETTE
Female image from the 1950s-1970s is back in fashion: clear lines and natural volume. There are many dresses and skirts of various lengths. There are practically no pants. “I think it goes out of fashion. In the future costumes of jacket with a skirt will be in fashion,” famous Ukrainian designer Lilia Pustovit noted in her comment to the journalists.
Ukrainian designers are convinced that the image of modern strong and stylish, but, at the same time, tender and romantic woman will dictate fashion for the next few seasons.
The absolute trend of the season are massive and bright elements. It can be anything from bright red shoes with lacing (presented in the collection by Lilia Pustovit) to “cruise” long cashmere or silk gloves (Artem Klimchuk).
As for the neck decoration, the absolute trend of all designers is massive jewelry that can be used with evening gowns, blouses, as well as with sports shirt. “The jewelry that can be seen from the back look really nice,” told the author and owner of the brand MITUS DESIGN Tetiana Mitus. “In particular, we have jewelry with clasps hidden in the front. It also looks good when, for example, a luster of turquoise stones hangs on the back.” Massive earrings and rings are also in fashion this season. By the way, what concerns rings, according to Mitus, the absolute “must have” of the spring-summer season are small rings that are worn on fingers phalanges in asymmetric manner.
It is still fashionable to decorate clothes with brooches and hair with tiaras. Moreover, according to Mitus, you can safely wear elegant vintage princess “crown” with ripped jeans, a white T-shirt, and sneakers. You can also be not afraid of mixing metals of different color. “It is absolutely normal and even stylish now even though not so long ago it was considered a sign of bad taste,” said Mitus.
However, according to the designer, the rule of “leaving the bottom (hands) lighter, when putting lots on top, for example, earrings” remains fair. In other words, it is still a rather bad idea to wear massive earrings, ring, bracelet, and necklace at the same time.